
ENGINE
TROUBLESHOOTING
Problem
Probable
Cause
Verification/Remedy
Engine
slows
and
stops.
1.
Fuel
lift
pump
failure.
1.
Fuel
lift
pump
should
make
a
distinct
ticking
sound.
Replace
pump
with
spare.
2.
Switches
and/or
wiring
loose
2.
Inspect
wiring
for
short
circuits
and
loose
connections.
or
disconnected.
Inspect
switches
for
proper
operation.
3.
Fuel
starvation.
3.
Check
fuel
supply,
fuel
valves,
fuel
lift
pump.
4.
20
Amp
circuit
breaker
tripping.
4.
Check
for
high
DC
amperage
draw
during
operation.
Ensure
breaker
is
not
overly
sensitive
to
heat
which
would
cause
tripping.
5.
Exhaust
system
is
restricted.
5.
Check
for
blockage,
collapsed
hose,
carbon
buildup
at
exhaust
elbow.
6.
Water
in
fuel.
6.
Pump
water
from
fuel
tank(s);
change
filters
and
bleed
fuel
system.
7.
Air
intake
obstruction.
7.
Check
air
intake.
Engine
overheats/shuts
down.
1.
Raw
water
not
circulating.
1.
Raw
water
pump
failure.
Check
impeller
-
replace.
2.
Coolant
not
circulating.
2.
Obstruction
at
raw
water
intake
or
raw
water
filter.
2a.
Thermostat
-
remove
and
test
in
hot
water.
Replace
thermostat.
2b.
Loss
of
coolant
-
check
hoses,
hose
clamps,
drain
plug,
etc.
for
leaks.
2c.
Broken
or
loose
belts
-
tighten/replace.
2d.
Air
leak
in
system;
run
engine
and
open
the
pressure
cap
to
bleed
air.
Add
coolant
as
needed.
Exhaust
smoke
problems
1.
Blue
smoke.
1.
Incorrect
grade
of
engine
oil.
Oil
is
diluted.
1a.
Crankcase
is
overfilled
with
engine
oil
(oil
is
blowing
out
through
the
exhaust).
1
b.
Crankcase
breather
hose
is
clogged.
1c.
Valves
and/or
piston
rings
are
worn.
2.
White
smoke.
2.
Engine
is
running
cold.
3.
Black
smoke.
3.
Improper
grade
of
fuel.
3a.
Fuel
burn
incomplete
due
to
high
back-pressure
in
exhaust
or
insufficient
air
for
proper
combustion
(check
for
restrictions
in
exhaust
system;
check
air
intake).
3b.
Dirty
flame
arrester.
3c.
Faulty
carburetor.
Choke
is
stuck.
3d.
Lack
of
air-check
air
intake
and
air
filter.
Check
for
proper
ventilation.
3e.
Idle
mixture
jet
too
rich.
3f.
Overload.
TROUBLESHOOTING
COOLANT
TEMPERATURE
AND
OIL
PRESSURE
GAUGES
If
the gauge reading
is
other than what is nonnally indicated
by the gauge when the instrument panel is energized, the
fIrst
step is to check for 12 volts
DC
between the ignition (B+)
and the Negative (B-) terminals
of
the gauge.
Assuming that there
is
12 volts as required, leave the
instrument panel energized and perfonn the following steps:
1.
Disconnect the sender wire at the gauge and see
if
the
gauge reads zero, which is the nonnal reading for this
situation.
2.
Remove the wire attached to the sender terminal at the
sender and connect it to ground. See
if
the gauge reads
full scale, which
is
the nonnal reading for this situation.
If
both
of
the above gauge tests are positive, the gauge
is
undoubtedly
OK
and the problem lies either with the
conductor from the sender to the gauge or with the sender.
If
either
of
the above gauge tests are negative, the gauge
is
probably defective and should be replaced.
Assuming the gauge
is
OK, check the conductor from the
sender to the sender tenninal at the gauge for continuity.
Check that the engine block
is
connected to the ground.
Some starters have isolated ground terminals and if the
battery is connected to the starter (both plus and minus
tenninals), the ground side will not
necessmily be connected
to the block.
Engines & Generators
35
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