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Westerbeke M-50B Manual de instalación Pagina 48

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LAY-UP
AND
RECOMMISSIONING
LAY·UP
Many owners rely on their boatyards
to
prepare their craft,
including engines and generators, for lay-up during the
off-season or for long periods
of
inactivity. Others prefer
to
accomplish lay-up preparation themselves.
The following procedures will allow you
to
perform your
own
lay-up
and
recommissioning.
or
you
may
use
them
as
a
check list for others. These procedures should afford your
engine protection during a lay-up and also help familiarize
you
with
the
maintenance
needs
of
your
engine.
If you have any questions regarding lay-up procedures, call
your local servicing dealer; he will be more than willing
to
provide
assistance.
PROPELLER
SHAFT
COUPLING
The transmission and propeller half couplings should always
be opened up and the bolts removed when the boat is hauled
out
of
the water or moved from land
to
water, and during
storage in a cradle. The flexibility
of
the boat often puts a
severe strain on the propeller shaft
or
coupling, or both,
while the boat is taken out or put
in
the water.
In
some cases,
the shaft has actually been bent by these strains. This does
not apply to small boats that are hauled out
of
the water
when not in use, unless they have been dry for a considerable
period
of
time.
FRESH
WATER
COOLING
SYSTEM
A 50-50 solution
of
antifreeze and distilled water is recom-
mended
for
use
in
the
freshwater
cooling system
at
all
times.
This
solution
may
require
a
higher
concentration
of
antifreeze, depending on the area's winter climate. Check the
solution
to
make
sure
the
antifreeze
protection
is
adequate.
Should more antifreeze be needed, drain
an
appropriate
amount from the engine block and add a more concentrated
mixture. Operate the engine to ensure a complete circulation
and
mixture
of
the
antifreeze
concentration
throughout
the
cooling system. Now recheck the antifreeze solution's
strength.
LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
With the engine warm, drain all the engine oil from the oil
sump. Remove and replace the oil filter.
(Place some paper
towels and a plastic bag around the filter
to
catch the oil
during its removaL)
When installing the new oil filter,
be
sure
to
apply a small
amount
of
oil on the rubber sealing gasket at the base
of
the
filter.
Fill the sump with the correct amount
of
oil for your
engine model. (Refer
to
the SPECIFICATIONS section
of
this
manuaL)
Use an oil with
an
API specification
of
CC or CD.
Run
the
engine
and
check
for
proper
oil
pressure
and
make
sure there are not leaks. Stop the engine, check oil level and
add oil
as
needed
to
bring level
to
dipstick full mark.
A
CAUTION:
Do
not
leave
the
engine's
old
engine
oil
in
the
sump
over
the
lay-up
period_
Engine
oil
and
combustion
deposits
combine
to
produce
harmful
chemicals
which
can
reduce
the
life
of
the
engine's
internal
parts.
FUEL
SYSTEM
Top off your fuel tanks with No. 2-D (SAE 1313) that has a
cetane rating
of
#45
or
higher grade
of
diesel according
to
ASTM 0975. Fuel additives should be added at this time
to
control bacterial growth and a fuel conditioner such as
Diesel Kleen
+ Cetane Boost (DO NOT use any alohol
based additives). Change the element in your primary fuel
filter/water
separator,
if
the
system
contains
one,
and
clean
the separator sediment bowl.
Change the fuel filter elements on the engine and bleed the
system as needed.
Start the engine and allow it to run for
5-10 minutes to make sure no air is left
in
the fuel system.
Check for any leaks that may have been created
in
the fuel
system
during
this
servicing,
correcting
them
as
needed.
RAW
WATER
CIRCUIT
Close the through-hull fitting. Remove the raw water intake
hose from the fitting.
Place the end
of
this hose into a
5-gallon bucket
of
clean fresh water. Before starting the
engine, check the zinc anode found in the heat exchanger on
the
engine
and
clean
or
replace
it
as
required.
Clean
the
raw
water
strainer,
if
one
is
installed
in
the
inside
of
the
hull.
Start the engine and allow the raw water pump to draw fresh
water through the system. When the bucket is empty, stop the
engine and refill the bucket with
an
antifreeze solution
slightly stronger then needed for winter freeze protection
in
your
area.
Start the engine again and allow all
of
this mixture
to
be
drawn through the raw water system. Once the bucket
is
empty, stop the engine. This antifreeze mixture should
protect
the
raw
water
circuit
from
freezing
during
the
winter
lay-up, as well
as
providing corrosion protection.
Remove the impeller from your raw water pump (some
antifreeze
mixture
will
accompany
it,
so
catch
it
in
a
bucket),
Examine the impeller. Acquire replacement,
if
needed, and a
cover gasket. Do not replace the impeller (into the pump)
until
recommissioning,
but
replace
the
cover
and
gasket.
NOTE:
If
the engine storage is going
to
be a lengthy one,
12
months
and
beyond, it is wise to rotate the engine by hand
two complete turns every additional
4 month to allow the
injectill pump components to move. This will help prevent
their sticking during extended storage periods.
,I,
,I,UnivGrsal
MARINE
POWER
42
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